My original
plan was very simple, Google "London Water Works" and see what was
brought up. The solution was also very simple. Around the southern end of
London Bridge was the location of the London Bridge Water Works which used to
sanitise the water for the people of that area. So, as Alexander would say,
simples, find a couple of pubs in that environ and away we go.
Looking up Montague Close to Tooley Street - As far as I can make out, the location of the London Bridge Water Works
But oh no,
my misguided efforts at bringing the tour to the great unwashed had backfired
as there were demands for more and more spectacular evening entertainments.
You'd have though that a night out at the comedy pub would be enough for this
choosy crew, but oh no, I was challenged to up the ante and bring on something
more.
I thought
I'd solved this thorny issue by managing to locate a night club cum jazz club
cum cabaret bar called the "Cellar Door" just off Strand in Aldwych.
This rather unique emporium has been built in a disused gent's lavatory and
working very laterally with the words "water works" I thought that
this would be acceptable suggestion for the evening out. At first it all looked
rather hopeful, especially as the female contingent of the tour actually seemed
quite enthusiastic about an evening out that would comprise of something more
than old man's pubs. However as the realisation that an evening at the Cellar
Door would going to prove a bit pricey (after 21:00 there's a 20% service
charge on all drinks!) the enthusiasms started to wane. I'll give you an
example..........
I mailed
everyone, laying out the details of the Cellar Door, including links to their
site, the menu and details of the cabaret. I even phoned the place to ascertain
whether we needed to buy advance tickets and what time we should turn up to guarantee
entry. And just how many responses did I get back? Well, I'll tell you........1!
Yep, that's it, 1 single measly reply. Well actually I got back two replies,
but that was only because I emailed Nicolas in Argentina by mistake, but at
least he got back to me! (He couldn't make it unfortunately.)
So whilst I
thank Gemma for having the decency to reply, (even if it was a refusal to
attend), it looked like the Cellar Door was a no-go. Falling back to plan B
(and I'll be truthful to admit that it was Bumble Bee who put me onto this) the
idea of going to a place called Club Aquarium on Old Street was muted around. I
checked out the website and found that whilst it was true that it did have a
fully functioning swimming pool in the club (the only one in the UK
apparently!) but boy did it look a dodgy old place. The sort of place I used to
go in 30 odd years ago and hate every minute of the experience, I'd be buggered
if I was going to organise a tour there!
So to cut a
long story short, and yes I know I haven't cut anything short, it was now two
weeks on from the last tour and we still hadn't got anything organised for
Water Works.
So talk
about the last port in a storm, the very original tour regular and everyone's
favourite chiselled jawed lothario, Spikey Haired Ed suggested that just we two
go to the original pubs on a non-favoured tour night and get it over and done
with. Well, do you know what, after a heavy day of a single 7 hour meeting it
seemed like the perfect thing to do. So rolling back the months, this blog's
very own odd couple walked the pleasant 1/2 mile from Tower Bridge to London
Bridge and took in three Cask Marque pubs.
The fantastic figurehead outside the Shipwrights Arms
The first
was The Shipwrights Arms on Tooley Street, which although quite inconspicuous
has quite a history being built back in 1884 by the famous pub builders Treacher
and Fisher. It's certainly kept its rather old fashioned charm being of classic
island bar layout with some fantastic tiled detailing around the walls. The
layout was so familiar in fact I wondered if I'd been in the pub already before
I realised that the pub I was getting it mixed up with was the Bridge Lounge
which is further south along Tooley Street where I'd taken the team to spend
their free Cask Ale Week vouchers. But seriously, check it out, the layouts are
almost identical.
Inside the Shipwrights
Anyway
pints of Caledonian Flying Scotsman and Sagres were ordered by the gruesome
twosome and we retired to a little table by the door to discuss all that was
wrong with the world and in the process gained the scan of the Cask Marque
certificate which was pinned to the wall.
Wall tiles inside the Shipwrights
Moving on
further west along Tooley Street, avoiding all the road works which seem only
designed to put your life at risk, we came to London Bridge and the sizable
Fuller's emporium The Barrowboy and Banker which is perched right at the south
end of the bridge. It's an impressive looking place, and like all of the
Fuller's estate, full of shiny brass and gleaming wood. Unfortunately it was
also full of people, many of whom seemed to be slightly worse for wear. The
queue for the bar was two deep and although I can't complain that I waited an
age for our pints of Chiswick bitter and Honey Dew (again no prizes for
guessing who was drinking what) it was not what I call a comfortable pub
experience. We moved back around the bar, trying to spot the certificate as we
avoided the flying elbows of the crowd seemingly intent on trying to spill as
much of your drink as possible, but drew a disappointing blank as it wasn’t
visible to any degree. A quick side note here is that Aussie Pete and I had
previously visited this pub on a balmy summer's day long before the Monopoly
Tour had ever been thought of and we asked about the certificate on that
occasion as well. I seem to remember the response from the bar staff was
something along the lines of "oh, it's in the post" or "we're
waiting for the new one" - well the proof in the pudding seems to be that
they're still waiting!
Barrowboy & Banker - Postman is just round the corner.
Scrambling
down the stair at the side of the bridge into Montague Close we came across the
final pub of the evening, the Mudlark. Named for the impoverished children who
used to scavenge for scraps amongst the muddy banks of the Thames I was, for
some reason, not holding up much hope for this place. Don't quite know why but
it turned out to be one of those surprisingly delightful places that confound
your presuppositions.
The Mudlark
Firstly it was at exactly the right sort of busyness. All
the tables were full, there was a hubbub of conversation but there was no queue
for the bar and no masses of standing people spoiling the view and getting in
my way. Secondly, I've noted that the Nicholson's bars can (hence I say
"can", not "always") seem to have a limited range of beers
with the same old favourites appearing again and again. Well perhaps I was
visiting on the beginning of a new rotation but there was a nice selection here
with a couple of new ones on me (Trawlerboys Best Bitter & Sambooks
Junction ) sitting alongside the more regulars (Adnams Lighthouse & Jaipur)
and the permanents (Nicholson's Pale Ale & London Pride) - I ordered a pint
of Trawlerboys from Green Jack brewery whilst Ed went for a Blue Moon. What was
nice here was that the two barmen on duty split the tasks, one pouring the ale
whilst the other got on with the Blue Moon, which made for quicker service and
avoided that feeling you get where you feeling like you're putting the bar
staff out by just being there.
The range of beers at the Mudlark.
Ed also
rang back the memory bells by unceremoniously dumping his segment of orange out
of his Blue Moon - ah that's right, you don't mix food and drink do you Ed!
Memories of The Doggets Coat and Badge! Oh how the time flies.
And
unfortunately "time flies" was the black cloaked grim reaper on our
evening out. I think we both could have stayed for 2 or 3 more, certainly I
wasn't getting bored with Ed getting absolutely everything off his small sunken
pigeon chest but alas the train was calling and whilst it was nice to be back
out on a less regular tour night, the looming spectre of getting up in the
morning was ever present. But still it was a nice way to get the tour back on
track. It finally put the bloody water Works to bed and means we can get back
on track with the streets again.
Yeah, that’ll
teach them to get all lardy-da with my tour!
Number of
Cask Marque Pubs visited = 153
Learn
anything new about Ed? = No, but learnt some stuff I really didn’t need to
know.
And who’s
top of the accompaniment leader board now BGC? = Well, wouldn’t you like to
know!
Next Stop
=Piccadilly
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